whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke

Thanks! Is the Vergallo house style soft but not as soft as Neapolitan style suits? I guess this is relevant to the greatest number of people in the context of a bespoke suit, and it would great to know what are the key points that should be thought about (choice of cloth etc.). Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? Or do you think Ill not be happy with a W&S suit? The real benefits of bespoke are in the long term, for example when you have gone through it once or twice, and know exactly what you want and what to ask about during the sessions. A similar question. Alex N. OK, good Alex. Through that program, weve rehabilitated over 7,000 women, says Suresh. Was this cloth amongst their offerings at their base price or was there a cost supplement? If youre into your clothes, you might well know the name Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Thanks for your reply. Great article . The reason I ask is that Im trying to find a sensible mid way point balancing cost/quality (budget range 1.5k to 3k), Yes, it is worth the extra over GB. Interesting article. To be honest I am leaning more towards WS now but cannot make up my mind! Richard, Hi Simon Full disclosure: I did weigh 6kg more when I ordered the suit than I did at the first fitting. Ill ask. I cant comment on how many of your readers are in a position like me (i.e. What you may not know, though, is that while the name sounds traditional, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury has built its reputation for quality by doing things differently. Id start with Whitcombs offshore bespoke. Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. I am a long time reader of your blog, and I am delighted to say that I am going to be getting my first bespoke suit this fall from W&S based on your review. You described some English suits as cuted with small drape (e.g. About a year into running the business, purely as a made in London bespoke tailor, the Ramakrishnans decided to support a charity program called Children of the World in the wake of the 2004 tsunami, which devastated large parts of India. Located in the heart of London's Mayfair district, Savile Row is home to some of the world's most prestigious men's fashion designers and tailors. Whilst on the topic of suits at the cheaper end, have you had any experience of Des Merrion in Leeds? I mentioned it as a collar gap to Zizolfi after the first one and we thought we had resolved it at the fitting but when I wore it a couple of times, I saw the same issue again. Thansk, Yes, although they are differences, such as less drape, leds of an extended shoulder. This article maybe one of the most significant you have written in terms of opening up bespoke suiting to a market that couldnt justify the 3k plus cost of a row suit, irrespective of relative value. I can understand why some people dont want a suit where any of it is made abroad. I have to say at the first fitting was impressed at the quality / value. Interesting point. Im sure you have more ideas for content than you can possibly cover, so just a couple of suggestions! Indeed, the tailor will usually line up the waist button marks when pinning the jacket during a fitting. Apologies if Ive missed it somewhere but what is the lapel width here? It gets made for a lot of weddings. And quality is quality, no matter where its sourced. If done as a sports coat, would you consider it too structured/formal to wear tieless? And no, it wouldnt be vastly different from KH&L, More importantly, for that price range this is certainly the best value suit out there, and it sounds like one that would suit your style as well. Because theyre made specifically for each customer, they also tend to fit better than store-bought suits. For sewing the shirt you can choose the following fabrics: poplin, jacquard, oxford, twill, pinpoint or herringbone. I feel like this product has not been well advertised in the past. 1 talking about this. Shoe and boot reviews, mostly of the high-end, British, Goodyear welted variety . Hi Simon, I know comparing tailors from Italy and England is like comparing apples and pears (style wise), but just from a quality perspective how would you compare Sartoria Vergallo to this W&S offering? And would the W&S offshore bespoke offering be vastly different in quality from a from a fully bespoke suit from someone like KH&L? I note your enthusiasm for W&S. But yes, I know the trend you mean. Every hem and lining felled by hand, buttonhole sewn with silk and trouser hand-sewn with curtained waistbands. Is it sailing, sailing, or the way to new horizons? I will still use my other London tailor but certainly plan to include W&S in the rotation. Coming up on the PS Shop this Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain, my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Simonnot-Godard via Mes Chaussettes Rouges, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style Breakdown, Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Edward Sexton offshore bespoke tailoring. I cant afford full Savile Row or top Neapolitan prices for my bespoke fetish, so I first read this review with great interest. I am split between Graham Browne and Whitcomb. And often they vary in service depending on who does the outfitting. I understand this instinct, but it really depends on the house itself and how it works. Free shipping for many products! Thanks Simon for this wonderful blog, To book a trunk show appointment, email Karen Weyer at karen@whitcombshaftesbury.com. What are your thoughts on Huntsman 100 (I think thats what its called right) anyway? Thank you very much for all your great advice! Free shipping for many products! Great width and shape of the lapels with a nice roll, and well balanced gorge (dont you think the modern gorge placement is too high?). Thanks for this Simon. Black mens jeans: how to choose and with what to wear? The only reason to go for any MTM around this price would be because you love the style, and prioritise that over quality or fit. According to their website the price GBP 1360 is without VAT. How would you compare this to Grahame Browne given the close pricing? A bespoke suit is entirely made from scratch, with the pattern being created based on your unique measurements. They have outfitters (not tailors) who measure you, and their cutters/tailors are in Hong Kong. To give some context, i am early 30s and now have the income to dabble with a few bespoke pieces; so far, this suit and spectacles from General Eyewear (selected based on reviews on your site, thanks!). We now turn to the problems I believe the suit has. And 100 Hands does shirts in India but as the quality is so high, its still expensive, I had a navy worsted two piece suit made at W&S which was cut by Sian. I also liked the jetted pockets (although I thought you only liked them on tuxes). If you want to be safe, try on something they already have and give your opinion on it. All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. Do you mind me asking what make your glasses are? Great post Simon, really enjoyed. Really pleased although I think there might be some mistake I dont have a fitting in a toile. Do you think W&S would still be a good choice and do you think they would accept these preferences or is their house style quite set? How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. I will take your advice and go with Whitcomb then. Before you raise an . Equally, as Im probably going to take the leap, if youd like any feedback from me on it, Id be more than happy to share. The lap seam is very much a bit of style flair and is probably worth doing without on your first suit. It can be good advice to try and see the cutter at some stage rather than just a salesman, but even that varies widely depending on the salesman some of them are just as good. But as I live in Geneva, and Varese would not be such a long drive from here, would Sartoria Vergallo also be a great option for high-end bespoke at relatively good prices? Have a good weekend. Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury makes hand made bespoke suits and shirts using traditional tailoring techniques Whitcomb & Shaftesbury And there arent many good soft MTM options (we also tend not to review them often as they change so frequently, unlike the tailors). So essentially the questions are: Yes I would. solito e.2500 for suit, e2100 for jacket. This is slightly out of my budget. Fit is very good and I find the level of make and finishing not too far behind my other English bespoke suits. John doesnt go on all the trips, but I wouldnt worry too much about that as long as hes there for one or two of the fittings. The idea was to empower women and make them the primary wage earners in their families. Subscribe to RR1 Live+ for exclusive virtual events all year long (at least 1 per month), conversations with Robb Report editors, special perks, and more. The measurements will be precise and the fit will be impeccable.Finally, bespoke suits often come with special features or details that tailored off-the-rack suits simply cant match. The fact is that I havent had the fortune to connect with any Neapolitan tailors like I have a couple in London, so I asked Suresh what they were comfortable with. Thanks for the response What is your view towards a staple in soft suiting in regards to lining and canvassing Half/quarter lined whilst Thin Half/minimal canvassing? Their classic bespoke service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. Quite affordable at $500/600 trousers. I also expect that you may receive favorable treatment in many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard of service. Your comments in the discussion are helpful in triangulating their merits. Thats the reason why I considered W&S, but I dont like the drape cut. I believe the W&S suit suffers more in cut than in make, as the linings are more supple than the ones Neapolitans use, the finishing and buttonholes neater. Being at ease doing this is why people talk a lot about the importance of relationship in bespoke too. how many weeks from measuring to first fitting, from first fitting to second fitting, etc. The shoulders are quite soft and natural, although the team can certainly do more roping if requested. Couldnt have been more pleased with it! Not a toile. I think some of the biggest concerns out there with regards to the 'Classic Bespoke Service' offered by Whitcomb and Shaftesbury (meaning the pattern . After giving myself a headache of what tailor to try next after a poor experience from a new(ish) city tailoring firm (that shall remain nameless), I commissioned a new suit from GB in Dec. No it would look good without a tie. Also for the sake of comparison would the drawbacks of mtm for soft tailoring (disregarding fit as obvious) be less of the hand details. There are cheap Neapolitan tailors coming to London use them instead if thats the look you want. Vergallo doesnt get enough attention they remain excellent value. See how much you wear it and what you enjoy about it, at least for a while. If those people want that product, they now know exactly what they need to pay for it 3,050 (the price of the Savile Row Bespoke product) rather than 1,350 (the Classic Bespoke). Most are closer to the 1000 make and finish, but simply charge twice as much. Thanks for your time, JK. Really like the balance and proportions of this particular suit, perhaps it would be worthy of a style breakdown sometime? Fashion Designer - Whitcom & Shaftesbury Several top brands including Dunhill, Gieves & Hawkes, and Ozwald Boateng offer this service. And either no pattern of just a small one in the weave like Birdseye or pick and pick, or herringbone. Do you see this as suitable for business, or not so much? On first sight it looks horrendous: Tacky, cheap and overall so incredibly bad it almost feels like a parody or scam. I just wonder if for something traditional and rarer like morning dress they would be able to help guide me through the process as well as A&S. I remember you recommending MTM for those building a trouser wardrobe, but im not sure if this company would follows ideal fit, considering they outsource their labor and the cutter is not in consultation with you. I am fine with the amount of chest drape in their house style but would like to see slightly stronger shoulders and a bit more roping. Youll have to contact them. Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? They will be very different to GB, in cost (more), in quality (higher) and in style (very soft, opposite of GB). Thanks for your blog Simon! If you are having custom-made clothes made for you, then they are bespoke. An appealing option cost wise compared to what some charge for RTW, and safe in the knowledge that the factory workers have been paid a fair wage. Their business has actually been going for a few years enough to train up that whole Indian workshop without much exposure at all. Black mens jeans: how to choose and with what to wear? Apologies if these are ignorant questions, but this will be my first foray into bespoke (thanks to the amazing information youve provided on this website)! I am still a student but want to get my first bespoke suit made; would you still recommend Whitcomb and Shaftesburys classic bespoke and have you any experience with Huntsmans 3,500 classic bespoke? Bravo! Vergallo would be a great starting point. The brand is the brainchild of two brothers, Suresh and Mahesh Ramakrishnan, who both enjoyed long and successful corporate careers in New York City before they decided to open a tailor shop. Just 30 Read More, Savile Row Savile Row is a street located in the center of London, United Kingdom. Yes, it was at their basic cost. Are there any similar services like the Huntsman 100 from other savile row tailors you would recommend? Your green linen G&H suit is really close to what I like. Curious on the lapel width used here. Even though W&S is affordable compared to Savile Row, I would prefer neapolitans which are comparable in price to W&S but in my experience produced a much nicer fitting and much more comfortable jacket than W&S. English style in mens clothing England has always been one of the poles of mens fashion along with Italy. Just a suggestion! Londons Best New Tailors Arent on Savile Row. Not necessarily if youll use it a lot it could be lovely. Or would it be too structured? Hi Calvin, The little things are not decisive, they decide everything, said the popular actor Harvey Read More, A Detailed Guide to Savile Row suit for Men The company with more than 200 years of history began as a uniform company for the military. How many fittings would you say one need to work in to have a W&S suit made, and could these be spaced out over a year or so? As I showed back in 2016 when I had suits made in both, there is no quality difference between the two. There are also things the Indian workshop can do that you wouldnt give to most Row tailors. PS Presents 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an image to enlarge. I worry, however, that they might be a bit expensive. In this article, Linus will be reviewing the final product of the trousers. In other words, when you order a bespoke suit, youre effectively speaking for that piece of clothing telling the tailor exactly what you want it to look like and how you want it to fit.Bespoke suits are usually made from higher-quality materials than ready-to-wear or off-the rack suits, and theyre designed to last longer. This kind of service level is something that can quickly drop out with cheaper offerings. Yes Stuart, Ill certainly do one. Just what Im looking for. Like this article? If Im not completely wrong, but the diffrence in price is not that very big. Get the Robb Report newsletter for similar stories delivered straight to your inbox. Thank you in advance. Im a student , Look up Graham Browne and Whitcomb on this site. Im always hesitant to suggest anything might be wrong with the jackets, without seeing them in person. I am considering the Classic Bespoke option for my first bespoke commission. I liked their house style but it indeed has more drape in the chest than I had experienced in the past. Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke. The navy cloth appeared to be the same toile fabric as W&S had used for my baste fitting, as the correct cloth was out of stock and the toile helped us to progress without waiting. The fact this has happened with two tailors is odd, and the only thing I can think of is that maybe you stand rather unnaturally during fittings, eg very erect? If you are buying off-the-rack clothes, they are tailored to fit you. Henry Poole etc.) Desperate to find an occasion to wear it again! W&S will still be more formal than pretty much anything Vergallo will produce. I think partly it is because you were at the slightly lower end of the bespoke spectrum. What I also find interesting and perhaps would be an interesting point of discussion with a tailor is that even though my right shoulder drops, I dont think my right armhole should be lower. However, am i expecting too much? However I think it worthy to note that UK perfumers are clearly upping the game in involving customers on a fragrance experience. No worries Ravi. Important stitching unfinished and then came undone. ), Thanks for the recommendation of the neapolitan tailors. What am I missing? Bespoke suits are custom-Made suits that are tailor-made to fit the specific measurements of the person ordering them. Therefore, I will not be going back as I see it as a bit of a risk. I have a coat in a pale wool that perhaps could have looked like a toile? However, they didnt provide much design input during the process, and i really had to manage and push the project along. Bespoke three peice suit in navy 13oz wool #bespoke # savilerow #handmade #suit #style #elegance #hollandandsherry #whitcombshaftesbury #mensstyle #menswear #rakish #elegance Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the. How strange, and to deepen the mystery further it was a pair of trousers which I had seen. Hi Sam And a pair of flannel trousers? B) I think its worth avoiding where possible. One of the biggest such sites in the world, it receives up to 500,000 page views a month. By the way, Sian is the other cutter at Whitcomb now, and is very good in my experience. By the way, do you know whats the price at W&S for a Classic Bespoke tweed jacket?
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